Still here

Howdy all!!!

  I am still here.. Just been doing little here, a little work there. I have been building the code 55 turnouts that are going to replace the code 80 ones that are currently in the industrial area.

  Instead of using the Fast tracks quick sticks. I thought about a way to make a tie jig. After remembering a thread I read a while ago. The original poster made a comment about using flex track to make a tie jig. So I used his idea, but I used sectional track.

After checking everything to see if it would fit, I applied the Pliobond to bottom of the rails and then set the turnout on the ties. What you don't see it the weights that set on the rails to make sure the glue made good contact and set properly. I let the assembly sit overnight.

Here is a #6 turnout that was constructed in a fast track assembly fixture placed on the tie fixture. The ties I used are Micro Engineering Turnout Ties.

 Now getting the turnout out of the fixture was a little tricky. I had to remove one the pieces of track that I used for the fixture. Seems the ties were caught under the foot of the rail. I am thinking that if I remove the rails and just use the ties as the fixture,, the completed turnout will come out much easier.

I trimmed the ties to proper length by using a Atlas turnout as a visual reference. I know the throw bar looks huge, well it is because I used  Fast Tracks 1/32" HOn3 PC ties. The N scale ones would not allow for a hole to be drilled for the wire that numerous switch machines use. I also wanted something sturdy and not flimsy. Once painted I don't think it will be that noticeable.

 

Well there ya have it, I need to make some more so I can have plenty when I begin the removing the code 80. Now I just need to make the decision to either stay with the industrial section I have now, or come up with a different plan. Anybody have any ideas? The is roughly 14' x 20" to work with.

The area available is from the piece of Homasote by the helix to the wall in back by the curve. The piece of plywood you see in foreground is no longer there. But,,, I could put it back. Who knows.

So till next time, 

Adios,Greg

New videos from the public relations department of the WBTR

Seeing that I just got my new loco in, Milwaukee Road 156, the bi-centennial unit that Kato/Kobo did, I wanted to show it in a couple of videos.

   The first video was taken with a regular video camera, I have no idea how it came out smashed together like it is. The second video I used my handy dandy smartphone, seeing that it takes video in HD.

   Ya'll can be the judge,, now remember be nice,, I am not a oscar winning anything.LOL

  Thanks for looking!!
      See Ya, Greg

Completion of the Helix remodel

After all the demolition, I was able to sand the areas that needed it. I also came across some areas that I used screws in. They were fine before since the cork covered them, but now that I don't plan on using cork I need to grind down the heads. So I loaded a grinding stone in the Ol' dremel and away I went. I know I made a point of wearing saftey glasses, grinding particles can and will get everywhere. I deal with that in my job as a welder for Caterpillar Inc.

  After all of that was done, I used a tack cloth to clean all the dust and particles from the sub-roadbed so that the adhesive caulk would adhere better. This loctite caulk is pretty good, real easy to use and it grabs pretty quick.

 I made transitions from cork to make sure I was at the proper elevation. This was fairly easy with the use of a surfoam, sanding block and a powered detail sander. Out of all three,, the surfoam tool worked the best.

I remember last time, I soldered three sections of flex together for the helix. That was a pain, so this time I decided to solder two sections together. Before soldering, I cut one tie off each end of the flex track section. This worked great, because of the 20" radius that I was using did not require the rail to move that much.

 I made sure to pay attention to the smoothness of the soldered joint, any bumps would not be good. I had scrap steel laying around that I use for weights,, worked great.

 I made sure the rails were in line and also that the rail joiners were centered.

 Here you see the completed solder joint.

After I laid the first two piece section,, I measured to see how much rail is cut off on the ends to make joints line up. Worked out to be 14mm. So I fabricated the two piece flex track sections, cut the right amount off, applied the adhesive caulk and a track laying I did go!!!!

There are some sections that I needed to add more supports to. You can see here, there is no support for the joint area of the sub-roadbed. You can see the added support in the picture prior to this section of text.

     While laying the track,, I noticed that I did not have to solder the connections between the two piece sections. The adhesive caulk and new rail joiners did the trick,,nice flowing curved joints!! I am so relieved that helix works MUCH better. Before I had to watch it all the time, now I can run a train in there and not even worry about it.

     Well that is it for now, I plan on taking some videos of trains traversing the helix. That will be a little later. I work weekends,, so maybe Tuesday next week,, who knows.

  Thanks for looking, Have a great one, Greg

Helix remodel

You know people say, that if you do not make mistakes you are not learning or trying. Well I learned alot.

   My helix has given me constant fits!! So I decided to rip up all the track. I am even removing the cork too. I had used a acrylic based adhesive caulk for laying my track,, worked really well, to the point of making it a royal pain in the rear to remove.

   The reason for track removal, is because when I had laid the track I put the adjustable ( sliding) rail on the outside. Which makes the gauge too wide. Yay me for being stoopid. Well now I am going to fix it! only been a couple of years dealing with the PITA. 

     When I started the deconstruction of the helix I thought I would be able to save the track.  I guess I was naive in thinking that. Nope, no way, ain't going to do it,,,etc. So,, I decided to remove everything, say goodbye mr track and mr cork, Bye Bye. Which is not too bad,, the helix takes about 27 pieces of track. Minus the 3 on top,, and about 5 pieces I saved,, not too bad. I need to get the other helix built also. 

     I used a couple different tools for the removal process. Putty knife,,nope. Xacto chisel blade,,,no way. 16" floating knife, used in taping and bedding sheetrock, that no workie either. Finally I decided to use a 1 1/2" chisel. Nice and sharp is the key here. An easy touch, and BLAMMO the track and cork come off easy. Which leaves me with less work to do with a sander to make it all smooth.

   

Here you can see the tie imprint in the caulk,,note to self,, don't use that much next time.!!!

 When I was cutting out the roadbed for the helix, I made sure I had centerlines for the cork. As you can see they are still there which will make the track re-laying easy peasy

      After I get all the roadbed up, I plan on sanding the plywood roadbed smooth to get rid of any remaining glue and or cork. When I get the new track laid, I will post some more pictures and also a video of the first train using the new helix.

Anyways,, that is all for now. 

 See Ya,  Greg